San Francisco - Mexico's Low Key Hot Spot

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San Francisco, Nayarit, Mexico - Majestic Pacific waves slid up the ivory sand as my boyfriend and I walked barefoot down the long beach, nearly deserted except for two young Mexican women watching the surf. Just behind us in a palm grove, a waiter was setting up brightly painted tables and chairs on the sand under a restaurant's thatched palapa for lunch.
We were just up the coast from Puerto Vallarta in the resort region recently dubbed the "Riviera Nayarit" - Nayarit being the name of the Mexican state and "Riviera," perhaps, to suggest the cachet of this just-being-discovered coast and its beauty. If the beach where we strolled was any indication, the name fits.
The beach was backed by a serene hamlet - population 3,000 - formally known as San Francisco, though locals call it San Pancho.
Earlier, roosters crowed as we strolled down the cobblestone main street that led to the beach, passing brightly painted walls, a small sidewalk market laden with golden mangoes and other fruit, a few craft shops, and a woman named Carmen grilling chicken outdoors - "Pollo Asado" - which smelled fantastic. We stopped to admire the town's well-maintained public garden, a riot of tropical blooms and lush foliage.

On a shady plaza near Playa San Pancho, a Huichol Indian named Lucio was displaying his wares - rainbow-hued folkloric animals and bowls covered with intricate designs made with tiny seed beads set in wax - as his young daughter played under the table.
We felt like we were in Old Mexico. In reality, we had come to San Francisco from our base of a fancy resort, Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Resort, in the upscale development of Nuevo Vallarta.
You have the upscale hotels and golf courses, and the little towns with authentic Mexican ambience. Each one is different and the pace is easygoing, sort of like Puerto Vallarta before it was discovered, said Oscar Cruces, managing director of the Grand Velas, explaining the allure of the region.
Grand Velas epitomizes the upper end of the Riviera Nayarit resort spectrum, and our premium-level suite overlooked the beach from a large private terrace equipped with a Jacuzzi under the stars and lounging bed big enough for two.
The resort's spa offers a variety of classes - yoga, tai chi, meditation, salsa dancing. And there are exotic treatments, including a "body mask" that incorporates and a massage that uses heated seashells. For golfers, there are seven courses nearby.
Nuevo Vallarta is home to more than two dozen luxury hotels and close enough to downtown Puerto Vallarta for guests to enjoy the shopping, nightlife and historic Old Town that so enchanted Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor during the filming of John Huston's "Night of the Iguana" that they bought houses there.
But low key, Mexican-style, can also be found nearby. In addition to San Francisco, we stopped in Sayulita, a surfing haven that has managed to retain an old hippie ambience even as it has become increasingly upscale. Just about everyone here looked tan and fit as we watched novice surfers on the moderate waves at the town beach. Learning will cost you $30 for a group class of three or more, or $50 for a private 1 1/2-hour lesson.
Even the non-surfing tourist can have fun in this colorful town with plenty of shops, restaurants and small hotels.
Another appealing spot in the Riviera Nayarit is Bucerias, famous for its restaurants. According to our guide, there are more than 40 places to eat on one street, Avenida Pacifica, alone.
Eco-travelers to Riviera Nayarit will find attractions including a turtle rescue center, bird watching and whale watch tours. For the adventurous there are canopy tours (zip-lining through the high tree canopy) and opportunities for sailing, snorkeling and horseback riding.
With more than 100 miles of coastline, the Riviera Nayarit is being hailed as the "Next Great Place." Bill Gates has purchased property in Litibu, a luxurious residential area. But perhaps the best indicator of the area's newfound fame is that the Dallas Cowboys cheerleaders were photographed in the Riviera Nayarit - Punta de Mita, Rincon de Guayabitos and San Blas, for their 2009 calendar. For when those bikini-clad cheerleaders come, can crowds be far behind?

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: Fly into Puerto Vallarta's international airport. Carriers with connecting flights from Boston include American (www.aa.com), United (www.united.com) and Delta (www.delta.com). If you plan to rent a car, make a reservation in advance.
STAYING THERE: Lodging options range from small guest houses in coastal towns to ultra-luxurious resorts on the beach. Rates at the five-star Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Resort start at $352 per person, per day, for a spa package that includes a massage and a guided hydrotherapy spa circuit, accommodations in a master or parlor Suite with ocean views, gourmet dining at a choice of several restaurants, activities for adults and kids, and taxes and gratuities. For other packages and specials, call 888-261-8436 or visit www.vallarta.grandvelas.com.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: Visit www.rivieranayarit.com or www.visitmexico.com, or call the Mexico Tourist Office, 800-446-3942.
(Find more travel features and the Get Away witH Fran blog at www.wickedlocal.com/travel)