Top tequila

Once the firewater of Mexico, tequila now holds its own with the best cognacs, writes Peter Bourne.

Tequila is shrouded in myth. Or maybe that's just the alcoholic haze lingering from your first teenage encounter with the firewater from Central America. Tequila's dodgy reputation derives from the image of worms and the '70s rock anthem Tequila Sunrise.

But fine tequila is vastly superior to the cheaper brands that have tended to dominate the Australian market. Let's start with some basics. Tequila is a town near Guadalajara, in Mexico. It's also the name of a nearby volcano. Tequila is made from blue agave, a succulent plant often confused with cactus. Only spirit distilled from the blue agave can be called tequila. There are two types of tequila: 100 per cent agave, which must contain exactly that, and standard tequila that must contain 51 per cent blue agave.
The Aztecs made a fermented alcoholic drink known as octli (or pulque) from agave, long before the Spaniards arrived in the Americas. So when stocks of brandy ran dry, the thirsty mariners and conquistadors turned to pulque, further refining it by using distillation methods. Thus was born the New World's first indigenous spirit.

The production of tequila is a two-stage process - with many similarities to the process used for cognac. The "pina" (the lush heart of a mature blue agave plant) is roasted to concentrate its sugars then crushed and fermented, each producer using individual (and closely guarded) yeast strains. This alcoholic base is then double distilled to craft a clean fine spirit. Top-quality tequilas undergo a third distillation.

In 2006, the Mexican government introduced NOM (Norma Oficial Mexicana) laws to define the various categories of tequila and physically delineate the area of tequila production - based on red volcanic soils and the country's best, high-altitude climatic conditions.

The hierarchy of tequila rests on the quality of the base spirit, its age and time stored in oak. Blanco or plata is a fresh white spirit with less than two months in oak, oro (gold) is blanco grade spirit blended with aged tequilas and caramel colouring and/or oak extract. Reposado (literally "rested") must undergo between two and 11 months of barrel ageing. The finest are añejo ("aged" or "vintage") tequilas with between one and three years in oak. Extra añejo, with at least three years in oak casks, is the pinnacle of tequila-making.

Tequila at the top end is serious stuff. Aficionados serve their favourite tequila like a good malt whisky - neat and preferably served in the special Ouverture Tequila glass designed by Georg Riedel. Some of the most celebrated brands are Casa Noble and Casa Herradura. Newer labels such as Patron and Partida Tequila are aimed squarely at trendsetters, while pioneers such as José Cuervo and Sauza emerged as market leaders in the late 20th century.

Yes, tequila has come a long way and now sits on the top shelf alongside the best cognacs and malt whiskies. The worm, it seems, has finally turned for Mexico's national drink.

Sauza Hornitos Tequila Reposado 100 per cent Puro de Agave $62.99
Don Cenobio Sauza was one of the first to purify the local rough spirit, mescal, in 1873. It has been aged in American oak to give aromas of quince paste and pickled pears. The palate is warm and spicy.

1800 Anejo Tequila Reserva 100 per cent de Agave $69.99
1800 refers to the year that tequila was first aged in wood. The reserva spends more than a year in charred oak barrels, giving a spicy vanillin bouquet with a touch of cinnamon, clove and pickled cumquat.

Don Julio Reserva de Blanco 100 per cent de Agave $83.99
This uses traditional techniques including stone ovens and triple distillation before early bottling to retain its fresh flavours. Delicious herbal aromas mingle with grapefruit. The palate has a warm, spicy finale.

Patron Silver 100 per cent Puro de Agave Tequila $105
This brand is widely regarded as the number one tequila, and the Silver has all the purity of the metal of the same name, with fruity aromas of lemon essence and fresh pear. The palate has a clean, bright finish.

Casa Noble Blue Anejo 100 per cent Agave Azul Special Reserva $185
This is aged for five years in French oak, creating a rich round bouquet that greets the nose with lots of candied mandarin and creme brulee characters. This textural tequila is smooth and generous, with a warm aftertaste.