When in Mexico, be flexible on the rules of the road

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Gearing up for a road trip in Mexico takes a little advance planning, but it's worth the extra effort.

Our car rental agency, Vasa of Manzanillo, purchased the best road map for us, the "Guia Roji", which provides detailed maps of the major cities and up-to-date information on toll roads and major highways. Between them and other travelers, we gleaned some important tips:

a. Stay on the toll roads. Mexico has a good network of toll roads. They're not cheap: our trip to Patzcuaro resulted in about $30 in tolls. But there is less traffic and the roads are in good shape.

b. Don't drive at night. It's just too dangerous. That's especially true for secondary roads, where there are no lights and where cattle may stroll along the roads.

c. Be prepared to pay cash for gas at Pemex stations, the state-owned monopoly. No credit cards are accepted.

Rental cars are not the only way to travel around Mexico. The bus system is comprehensive -- and we met many Americans who preferred to travel by deluxe coach and taxi instead of renting a car. For example, between Manzanillo and Patzcuaro, the cost was about $35 per person by deluxe coach -- which includes comfy chairs, an on-board rest room and movies.

Patzcuaro, in the state of Michoacan, is known as a hub for surrounding artisan villages. Located between Guadalajara and Mexico City, Patzcuaro has a rich colonial history, beginning in the 1500s, when Bishop Vasco de Quiroga became the first bishop of Michoacan. He helped organize the indigenous Purhepecha people into villages surrounding Lake Patzcuaro by establishing an industry for each village.

The village of Santa Fe de la Laguna is known for its pottery, using lead-free, pre-Hispanic forms. Craftsmen use images of corn, fish and animals on the pottery.

Instead of a hotel, we opted for a small casita at Casa Werma, which is owned by a local Buddhist community. It's a lovely bed-and-breakfast in near the city's two main squares and the Basilica. Since there were five of us, the three-bedroom home was a great option. The hosts, Eva Halpern and Christina Sandoval, are from Colorado and know the area well. They recommended a guide, Marcia Parrino, who is an art historian. She is familiar with many of the village artisans. The cost is about $20 per hour -- but she'll provide valuable background on the area and guide you to the homes of some of her favorite artisans.

At another village, Capula, the specialty is ceramic design. There is an artist's co-op where you can see a wide variety of work from many artists. Marcia, however, enjoys showing visitors the home studios of some of the best artists -- to give travelers a view of the materials used to create the work -- even seeing the kiln where the goods are fired prior to painting.

The village of Tzintzutzan is home to a variety of artists who use dried reeds from the nearby lake to weave into intricate designs. There also are furniture manufacturers who sell their wares. The village also boasts several churches, part of a Franciscan monastic community established in the 1540s. On the grounds are the oldest olive trees in North America, imported by the Franciscans from Spain.

If you come to Patzcuaro, bring your hat, gloves and a jacket. It's chilly up here at 7,130 feet. This is where folks come during the summer to escape the heat on the coast. You'll be glad you have your jacket when you stroll the main plaza in the evening after dinner!