MEXICO: Watching the tequila sunrise

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Las Ventanas hotel, Los Cabos, Baja California, Mexico _460

WHEN I first arrived, I wasn’t sure I’d be comfortable at Las Ventanas. The hotel, the only five-star place to stay in Los Cabos, in the Baja California region of Mexico, was stunning and my huge suite left me speechless.

I wasn’t sure I was the sort of person who wanted to be waited on hand and foot. Five days later, I was quite used to it. I still hadn’t called my suite butler with any diva-like demands, but I was quite happy to let the pool attendants adjust my sun lounger, clean my sunglasses and bring me ice-lollies.

Barely a 20-minute drive from San Jose del Cabo airport, Los Cabos, it’s easy to see why Hollywood stars of the 40s and 50s would come to relax here in privacy.

The surroundings are stunning and the iridescent blue Sea of Cortez is home to a myriad of colourful sea life.

Fortunately, these days you don’t need a movie credit to qualify for the star treatment. At Las Ventanas, staff prefer guests don’t lift a finger – almost to the point of insistence. I’m sure, if I had asked, they would have even carried me into the infinity pool that looks out over the sea.

The pool’s meandering shape means it’s not really designed for swimming lengths – more suited to lounging around or drinking frozen margaritas at the swim-up bar.

I even had lunch while perched on an underwater stool, although eating my roasted vegetable and panela cheese wrap without dropping bits in the water proved a challenge.

The pool is a great place for people watching, and, while the discreet staff won’t name names, Brad Pitt, Goldie Hawn, Arnold Schwarzenegger and Pamela Anderson are among the famous faces that apparently frequent the resort.

Although it would be easy to while away the hours literally lounging around, there are plenty of activities to occupy those with surplus energy to burn.

I managed an early-morning run along the beach. The crashing waves sound enticing but, unfortunately, make the sea too dangerous for swimming.

here are tennis courts, complete with a coach and ball boys, and the Cabo Real golf course, designed by Robert Trent Jones II.

Less energetic guests can take a cooking – and eating – lesson in the shaded herb garden, although I made the mistake of trying a filling Mexican breakfast of poached eggs on mushroom enchiladas before the class.

Recipes range from making authentic guacamole – using the chef’s trick to chop up an avocado the easy way – to creating ceviche (fish cooked using the acid from citrus juices) to roasting beef wrapped in a banana leaf.

There was another chance to sample a taste of Mexico at a tequila lesson where I learned to pour the drink down the centre of my tongue to stimulate the correct taste buds. I still didn’t like it, though.

More to my taste was dinner in La Cava, the hotel’s atmospheric wine cellar restaurant, where we were served a five-course meal and accompanying wines.

You can have a different dining experience every night at Las Ventanas, from the relaxed Sea Grill at the edge of the beach to The Restaurant, the more formal dining area overlooking the pool.

The whole resort is candle-lit at night – this is a hotel that boasts a Department of Romance, after all – but the most romantic place for dinner is on the beach. Dinner for two on the Beach or at La Cava costs around £170, plus 10% tax and 15% service.

There’s something about kicking off your shoes and wriggling your toes in the sand that relaxes you immediately and watching the sun set as a fire and candles glow is sure to take away any niggling stress.

Just being somewhere so luxurious was enough to relax me. My huge two-bedroom suite had the biggest, most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in, a walk-in shower room and a spa bath that the ever-attentive staff can fill with bubbles and rose petals so it’s ready when you return. Tick a box and they will even scent the room with aromatherapy oils.

The balcony, overlooking the building’s private pool, was ideal for watching the sun rise and set, and I could even catch a glimpse of surf. Every room has a telescope, although the sky is so clear it’s easy to enjoy the stars with the naked eye.

It’s even possible to have spa treatments in suites, which is ideal for celebrities or the shy. The spa is well worth a visit, though, as it offers a mixture of traditional favourites and the unusual.

I’ve had several massages before so, although the thought of the four-hand treatment was tempting, I plumped for the watsu (water) massage.

Lying in a pool with floats on my legs and my body supported by my therapist, I was spun around and had my legs and arms bent and straightened while I was told to breathe deeply and relax.

I felt a little self-conscious at first but kept my eyes resolutely shut and found the experience very relaxing.

My second treatment, a 90-minute elemental gemstone facial, was pure bliss, and included massage of my lower legs and arms, as well as hot stones on my back.

My chosen element, fire, and gemstone, amethyst, were used to tailor the treatment and I came out relaxed and glowing.

While I sometimes find it hard to switch off on holiday and often get a little fidgety and homesick, after five nights at Las Ventanas I wanted to live there.

* BEVERLEY ROUSE was a guest of Las Ventanas Al Paraiso, where rooms cost £400-£5,000 per night, depending on season.

ACTIVITIES like romantic beach dinner, dinner in La Cava, cooking class, tequila class and cinema on the beach start from $200 (£158), plus 10% tax & 15% service charge.

Reservations: 00800 8767 3966 or visit www.rosewoodhotels.com.

BEVERLEY flew with American Airlines to San Jose del Cabo ex- Heathrow via Dallas or Miami from £711.90 return (economy) incl taxes and surcharges.

American Airlines reservations: 020 7365 0777 and www.americanairlines.co.uk.

OPERATORS with packages to Las Ventanas incl Seasons in Style (01244 202000) which offers seven nights’ room-only for price of six – £2,775 – based on Garden View Junior Suite, with BA flights into Mexico City and Mexicana onwards to San Jose. Offer valid until Dec 18.

Elegant Resorts (01244 897516) offers seven nights’ room-only from £2,815, saving £125, incl BA and American Airlines flights, private transfers. Offer valid to May 25.